HEALDSBURG
TRAVEL ITINERARY
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Westside Road & Healdsburg
Square Itinerary — A Low-Mileage Countryside, Wine
Tasting and Dining Dream Tour
Arrival
Madrona Manor
Relaxation and Dinner
Day One—Countryside on Westside Road
Breakfast-Madrona Manor
De La Montanya Vineyards & Winery
Hop Kiln Winery
Rochioli Winery
Davis Bynum Winery
Lunch-Picnic from Oakville Grocery Deli @ Davis Bynum
Gary Farrell Winery
Porter Creek Winery
Dinner-Zin Restaurant
Day Two—Healdsburg Plaza
Breakfast-Madrona Manor
Toad Hollow Vineyards
Thumbprint Cellars & Lounge
Shopping
Selby Winery
Lunch-Restaurant Charcuterie
Front St. Five Winery Complex
Dinner-Dry Creek Kitchen (BYOB)
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Day
Two—Healdsburg Plaza
For the second day of your excursion focuses
on the Healdsburg Plaza area. If the vineyards
are Healdsburg’s lifeblood, the Plaza is its heart. Here
cafés mingle with boutiques, restaurants amongst tasting rooms,
all within easy walking range. There
is always a lot to do and discover around the historic Plaza, and
on a hot day, the Plaza revels in the shade of its big trees. Summer
Tuesdays you might encounter the charming open-air Farmer’s Market
in the late afternoon, and the last Friday of every month is the
enjoyable Art Walk from gallery to gallery. Whatever you
do, wander and enjoy these wine tasting highlights as you go along.
After another scrumptious breakfast at the Manor,
we’ll start at the Plaza. The crowds are light at this
hour. To avoid running afoul of the three-hour parking
limit that governs most of this area, find the lot behind the
Hotel Healdsburg on the west side of the Plaza, where there is
no such limit.
In recent years, many interesting artisan
wineries have joined the big players in this neighborhood. We’re
going to focus on the smaller folks, plus a group of wineries
about eight blocks away known as the Front Street Five. By
the way, you are shopping for a special wine to match tonight's
dinner, at Dry Creek Kitchen. Advance reservations are
strongly recommended. Call (707)
431-0330, or just walk in at 317 Healdsburg Avenue and make them
while on this tour.
Begin with Toad
Hollow Vineyards, where an interesting partnership
of celebrity offers a flagship Chardonnay that is widely
distributed throughout the United States. The friendly,
sociable tasting bar has made an excellent addition to the
Plaza experience. If you like your wine light but dry,
try the soft, pleasing Rosé of Pinot Noir. If
you like it a little sweet, try the Risqué, a sweet
sparkling wine with controlled (6%) residual sugar. Wonderful
with big stinky cheeses or a fruit plate, this is one of the
more unusual and popular wines of the area. Toad Hollow
is located at 409A Healdsburg Avenue, just north of the Plaza.
Nearby we move to the newest, perhaps most stylish tasting room
in the area, Thumbprint
Cellars and Lounge. Located at 36 North Street and
opening at 11am, this tasting room is truly more lounge than cellar,
so plan to linger and relax. The locals have named the Thumbprint Pinot
Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon wines best in the county
several times over. The Cabernet Franc is our favorite,
rich yet food friendly. Enjoy your pleasant visit here, where
the people behind the wines are usually available to help you.
After visiting Thumbprint, wander into the
Plaza area, and feel free to browse! If you visited Barndiva
last night, you know where our next destination Selby
Winery is located, near the opposite corner of the Plaza. Find
Center Street again on its east side, and walk south past Oakville
Grocery to 215 Center Street.
Selby draws from choice vineyards in Sonoma
County’s best AVA’s to obtain the best fruit—Dry Creek, Alexander,
Russian River and Carneros—all hand harvested. We
especially like the 2001
old-vine Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel, which recently won Gold
Medal at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair. It is lighter in
body and alcohol, but a complex, flavorful treat.
After visiting Selby, you are ready for sustenance
at Restaurant Charcuterie, which
is not far from where you started. Don’t forget to move the
car to a new space if you have tarried and parked in the three-hour
zone. If you want a meal that is on the light side, the soups
and salads here are tasty options. Located at 335 Healdsburg
Avenue, lunch is not available here on Sunday; your alternate is
Willi’s Seafood & Raw Bar, almost directly across the street
at 403 Healdsburg Avenue.
After lunch, hop in the car, and head east
up picturesque Matheson Street from the corner of the Plaza and
Oakville Grocery. You
will want to turn right on Front Street to reach the so-called Front
Street Five. Though walkable it would be too far, and
in the summer too hot, for most people. The Riverfront Historic
District includes Memorial Beach Bridge and a public bathing area
along the mighty Russian River, as well as this brightly restored
winery complex at the southeast end of town. The fine collection
of artisan wineries, in separate tasting rooms grouped together,
is our primary destination.
Huntington Wine Cellars offers
several interesting white and red wines. You will be sure
to want to taste the exceptionally elegant Cabernet Franc, lighter
in body than the wine earlier at Thumbprint. This wine is
offered only at the winery due to its low production, and is a
great match to food. Its rich, dark color belies its smooth
ride across your palate. A second label in the house, Godwin, focuses
on an outstanding, silky smooth blend of Bordeaux varietals, a
very pretty wine. Closed Monday.
Sapphire Hill is
only open Friday-Sunday, 11-4:30. Their renowned 2002
Pinot Noir is a little spicy up front, with intense cherry
and a pleasing medium body. Their selection of Zinfandels is
also not to be missed. We especially like the characteristic
smokiness of the Italian styled, old-vine Zinfandel from
the Tom Feeney Ranch, but if you like more berry fruit,
the Bastoni Vineyard wine, with its 102-year-old field blend
of Zinfandel and Carignane, might reign supreme. Occasionally
you will be able to taste wine from the tiny artisan Holdredge here. John
Holdredge doesn’t always keep his posted hours, as his wines are
often sold out. Sometimes they are offered on the by-the-glass
lists back at Madrona Manor and other quality spots around town.
Camellia Cellars Tasting
Room reflects an interesting history, as the wines
were originally made in the basement of the nearby Camellia
Inn. It is also at the forefront of the massive resurgence
in Italianate winemaking in this area. Camellia is a
consistent favorite for Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese,
made with impressive fruit from the Dry Creek Valley to the
northwest. The Diamo Grazie Super Tuscan Sangiovese blend
is the big ticket here though. Sangiovese is typically
thought of as a pasta wine, matching tomatoes and marinara
with its good acidity. The immense structure and backbone
resulting from the blend matches fowl or rich meats to go with
the pasta. It changes the proportion of Sangiovese, building
mid-palate texture and a lingering finish. This blend
is crafted using Camellia’s finest select barrels; the wine
won Gold Medal for the 2002 vintage at the Sonoma County Harvest
Fair. Open 11-6 daily.
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Across the street, the Davis
Family Winery is open Thursday–Sunday only, otherwise
call ahead for an appointment at (707) 569-0171. A knowledgeable,
enthusiastic staff will welcome you to a selection of awesome
wines. The 2002 Russian River Pinot Noir shows
a delightful light texture, layers of red and black cherry
fruit, and a lack of wood flavor to complement its special
microclimate on Vine Hill near Forestville in the Russian River
Valley. Here again only 2500 painstakingly produced cases
are made in total; a very nice olive oil is offered for tasting
here as well.
After you have enjoyed the Front Street Five and perhaps wandered
over the bridge and along the river, you can make the short drive
to back to the Manor to refresh, or if hungry head directly for
your dinner destination, Charlie Palmer’s Dry
Creek Kitchen at the Hotel Healdsburg, 317 Healdsburg Avenue. You
will be offered a choice of elegant but casual indoor or pleasant
outdoor seating. A full bar is offered, but since you are
in the know, you were aware today that you can bring your own wine
discoveries along, and enjoy any made with Sonoma County fruit
with no corkage charge! Reservations again recommended at
(707) 431-0330.
We hope that you enjoy this tour of the area. If you are spending
more days here, you will want to venture to the Dry Creek and Alexander
Valleys next. See you next time!
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