TEMECULA VALLEY TRAVEL ITINERARY
Warm Days, Cool Wines in Southern California
Not too far from popular Southern
California tourist attractions like Disneyland and
Sea World is a different kind of wine country destination. That the surprising
Temecula Valley is such a lively wine area, and is one
located so conveniently for tours deep in the southern
part of the state, will be a revelation to those who
have never visited. This fairly hot growing area
is best known for cool, crisp, refreshing white wines,
but also presents some excellent reds, along with a generous
selection of ports and other tasty dessert wine treats.
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For decades, the quality wines and
hospitality of Temecula wineries have been of interest
to those in the know. We
took a day off from the beach in San Diego to explore
the growing reputation and distinctive style of South
Coast Wine Country. Following an easy one-hour
drive (one-and-a-half hours if you are coming from Los
Angeles), we headed east of Old Town Temecula from US
Highway 15. Here lays a very compact wine-producing
area, neatly nestled amongst the area’s citrus groves
and hillside avocado ranches. The majority of vineyards
and wineries are conveniently lined up along a five-mile
stretch of picturesque Rancho California Road.
This likable area was very busy on
the Thursday we visited, with a few surfers and
tourists mingling with crowds of women escaping
nearby suburbia for the day. The pleasant weather
of a late spring morning was an agreeable treat, and
as the day heated up the area’s warm hospitality
kept us cool everywhere we went.
Vineyard, winery and hospitality
development are active in Temecula Valley Wine Country! Many new wineries,
restaurants, and resorts have recently been built to
augment this popular area’s capacity to entertain. Industry
mavens are aware of the damage here from Pierce’s disease,
spread by the glassy-winged sharpshooter, but the area’s
ability to deliver on its reputation for quality wines
and hospitality has hardly been affected.
The growing appeal of Temecula
wine and the area’s growth as a wine country destination brought
recently approved measures dictating local varietal content
in the wines sold and tasted here. Big name wineries had eyed
Temecula, sometimes from afar, for its proximate appeal
to the Southern California tourism and recreation market. Thankfully,
Temecula remains true to itself even as it changes.
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It all started in 1975 with Callaway
Coastal, one of the oldest brands in the area,
so we started there, too. In recent years the
name was expanded to reflect their range of Coastal
sources of fruit, both south and central. The
wines are fresh, crisp and approachable—we especially
liked the light and delicate rosé, the Nebbiolo
Bello. With an intense bouquet of strawberries
and cherries, a clean finish and light touch of sweetness,
this wine is a perfect match to the area. Allie’s
Restaurant is located at the other side of the
Callaway parking lot, perched on a hillside with view
tables in a cool, shaded area, and offers refreshing
California Mediterranean cuisine to match the setting.
From across the road, an attractive view of the renowned Thornton
Winery beckoned. This winery combines old
world style with new world taste to create award winning,
premium varietal wines. The méthode champenoise
process is used at several area wineries, and Thornton
offers one of the best wines in this style. Café
Champagne, a four-star award-winning gourmet restaurant
featuring contemporary fusion cuisine, is another
reason to stop here.
Out to the east past a picturesque creek still bubbling
with the year’s late rains, Wilson
Creek Winery and Vineyards appealed with a spirit
at once California traditional and modern. Its
tasting room was buzzing with vibrant energy on this
idyllic weekday. Along with more serious wines
like Sangiovese and Mourvedre, tasty sweet wines
abound at Wilson. Crushed almonds are added to
a sparkling wine’s second fermentation, a delightful
wine with nice body and texture that scored 95 points
at the California State Fair. The Angelica Cream
Sherry is made from 100-year-old vines, and reflects
an old tradition. Sherry is considered the first
wine ever made in California, used in ceremonies by the
Padres of the California Mission settlements; this wine
carries on the tradition in a grand way. For a
special treat it is served in a Dutch Chocolate “glass”,
yum! The Sunset Jazz in the Vines concert series
presents another outstanding reason to enjoy this hospitable
facility.
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Nestled among 350 acres of vineyards, the Ponte
Family Estate Winery and Restaurant was a welcome
retreat, as by now we had worked up an appetite. The
Smokehouse Café delivered on its promise of casual
dining in a pleasantly designed outdoor setting. We
relaxed under a shady patio, placed perfectly at the
edge of beautiful designed gardens and the vineyards. The
sight of iced tea and Sangria being served from big
glass pitchers enticed us, but the restaurant staff
ably matched Ponte wines to the menu. The fresh
clean flavors of the Pinot Grigio were a standout matched
to the ample flavors of a delicious Citrus Spinach
Salad, which integrated other local specialties of
avocado and citrus.
The climate of the Temecula Valley may lend itself more
to white wines, but Stuart
Cellars also produces some serious reds. Those
accustomed to Napa or Sonoma red wines will find themselves
at home here. Grower-Winemaker Marshall Stuart
came from Ohio more than a decade ago to bring his plan
to fruition, planting vineyards, building winemaking
facilities, and bringing additional quality to a valley
hungry for even more excellence. The 2002 Cabernet
Franc is a standout choice in Temecula wine enjoyment. Unfiltered
and rich, its plush, dense fruit rides smoothly across
the palate. An up-and-coming Malbec wine received
acclaim and quickly sold out earlier this year, and excellent
white and red Meritage wines are also made. The
Stuart tasting room is also a cool respite from a hot
day, pleasant and very friendly.
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Across the road, Mount
Palomar Winery is another area pioneer, though
its tasting room has been updated to great effect. It
is another cool spot to relax if the Temecula sun is
getting to you. The white wines are in transition
here thanks to sharpshooter damage, but the intriguing
Italianate white varietal Cortese still managed
to impress. Cortese is the most celebrated white
grape of northern Italy, and its unique fruit flavor
flourishes in the Temecula sun. Crisp, dry, and
delicious, it is a perfect match to fresh seafood. Other
standouts were the crowd-pleasing concentrated fruit
of a succulent Syrah, the thick and tasty Solera
Cream Sherry, and Shorty’s Bistro Red, an
engaging Super Tuscan blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet
Franc, Cinsault and Barbera. Shorty’s Red is
also one of the area’s best bargains at $14.
Our last stop, Falkner
Winery, produces 10 wines from just 24 acres. Its
rustic yet inspiring setting communicates elegance
at the same time. The renowned estate grown Sauvignon
Blanc is excellent, as the varietal is a perfect match
to the Temecula terroir. This wonderful wine
was made entirely in steel tanks. Its diverse
herbaciousness is surrounded with a slight melon aroma,
and fresh floral and fig flavors follow in a soft round
finish.
The 2003 Sweet Loretta carries
a lovely name for a beautiful wine. This
fruit-laden blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon is
named after Loretta Falkner, co-owner with her husband
of the winery. With just enough sweetness with
only 1.5% residual sugar, flavors of melon and honeydew
shine brightly. We thought it perfect for sitting
and sipping, as well as for pairing with fruits, salads
and chicken dishes.
Sadly, we were out of time. For
our next visit, we will be sure to catch the Palumbo
Family Winery; we heard comments about their fine
Cabernet Sauvignon and another exceptional Cabernet Franc. We
also were recommended to Leonesse
Cellars, especially for a unique Cinsault Port, and
to tiny Hart
Winery for our pursuit of fine reds to match the
cool white wines Temecula has shown it produces so well.
We did finish with a late afternoon
visit to charming Old Town Temecula. Through a picturesque gate at
the other end of Rancho California Road lies an old Western
town that respects its history while adapting to a new
age of wine grapes and avocados. Here Stellar
Cellars operates a quality wine shop, a pleasant,
spacious wine bar with a rich selection of by-the-glass
choices. Open later than the wineries, it is a hip, early
evening hangout that often features live music jams. Specializing
in Temecula wines, our charming hostess Anna led us through
an international tasting flight that was interestingly
organized by varietal and appellation. Thursday
night tasting events present food and wine adventures,
and Fridays and Saturdays offer the no-cover jams from
7-10pm.
The Temecula
Valley Winegrowers Association supplies a map and
excellent information about the area. Itpromotes the Vine2Wine event
coming on August 9, a chance to experience an insider’s
view of the Temecula Valley just prior to harvest. This
is a great opportunity to go beyond the ordinary tasting
room experience to meet the men and women who grow
the grapes and make the wines. Taste the best
fruit of the area by private tour, and then enjoy a
special Sunset Vineyard Barbeque. If staying
at an area accommodation, you might choose to relax
and leave the driving to The
Grapeline Wine Country Shuttle. These area
experts are ready to facilitate your carefree enjoyment;
tours and a popular weekend shuttle provide carefree
all-day transportation among the wineries.
We thoroughly enjoyed our whirlwind
tour of the Temecula area. Whether the days are warm
or cool, we know you will find plenty to enjoy in this
valley. |
