By Thom Elkjer, Wine Editor

Russian River Valley’s La Crema winery is owned by the daughters of Jess Jackson, which means it has access to the resources, knowledge, and impressive vineyard portfolio of Kendall-Jackson. The winery has recently opened a tasting room in Healdsburg, where you can try out Riedel’s new stemless “O” crystal glasses, watch the winery in virtual operation on sexy plasma screens, and – for the first year, at least – taste for free. Open seven days, 10:30 – 5:30, 235 Healdsburg Avenue, 707-431-9400. Here are four wines you might encounter:

	La Crema Syrah Sonoma County 2003 ($18): aromas and flavors of juicy ripe red cherries, kirsch, and light milk chocolate; the texture starts plush, then the good acidity kicks in and makes your mouth water; good balance in the finish.
	La Crema Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2004 ($22):  dark, concentrated red cherry aromas well out of the glass, with Italian espresso, ground nutmeg, allspice, and a light touch of oak joining the cherries in your mouth; smooth texture, good balance, and strong varietal character in the finish. A young winner.
	La Crema Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2003 ($24): aromas of chunky applesauce, warm cut grass, and French oak become similar flavors; the palate-coating texture is also layered with caramel and almond extract that darken the taste toward the finish.
	La Crema Pinot Noir Russian River Valley “Nine Barrel” 2002 ($60): immediately appealing  aromas of dry red cherry and rhubarb, framed subtly in high-class oak, make for a classic Pinot Noir introduction; the aromas become moist, juicy flavors in your mouth, balanced by plenty of structure and ripe tannins. Good now, better in 4-6 years.