October 2005--Wine Recommendations
California Syrah Recommendations
By Thom Elkjer
The marriage of Syrah and California has one of the hottest
trend lines in wine. Ten years ago, the state had 800 acres of the grape about
2% of the acreage held by Cabernet Sauvignon. Today it’s on its way
to 16,000 acres and growing faster than any other major grape, red or white.
It’s easy to see why. Syrah comes from a region in the south of France
known for sun and wind which California has in even greater abundance.
It’s easy to grow and easy to make into wine. And its flavor profile
fits California’s Mediterranean-style dining trends like a lock and
key.
A classic description of California Syrah is “blueberries
in blood” dark sweetness mingled with a powerful physicality.
Some people emphasize Syrah’s “meatiness” both in flavor
and texture. Others like the “brambly” quality of spice and
dried herbs. Whichever you prefer, you can pair young Syrah with any hearty
food, particularly grilled sausage or cassoulet. Older wines can be stunning
with veal and poultry.
These eight Syrah’s have all been grown using organic
and biodynamic practices, but they are all distinctly different. Taste them
and see if you agree with Thom.
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Fitzpatrick Syrah Fairplay (Sierra Foothills) 2001 ($20): has it all,
from vivid red plum flavors and rich earthy undertones to spicy high notes and
a long warm finish that drapes over your tongue like liquid tapestry. |
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Sobon
Estate Syrah Shenandoah Valley 2002 ($15): this smooth-textured, tooth-coating
wine is beautifully balanced between sweet fruit and lively tannins, and gets
fruitier and spicier through the finish. Excellent value. |
 |
Bonterra
Syrah Mendocino 2003 ($24): a juicy, fruit-fest of plums, rhubarb, and
berries of all colors, plus cassis for darker richness, layered into a full-bodied,
silky texture with a mouthwatering aftertaste. |
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Patianna
Syrah Mendocino Fairbairn Ranch 2003 ($30): supple, satisfying syrah
from a biodynamic vineyard; the fruit is dark and red, there’s plenty of
earth and spice, and the finish lifts off warmly. |
 |
Lolonis
Syrah Redwood Valley Winegrowers Selection 2001 ($32): engagingly bright
version of Syrah, with aromas and flavors of fresh orange juice mixed into the
red cherry candy flavors; nice smooth texture, too. |
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Preston
Syrah-Sirah Dry Creek Valley 2002 ($20): smells, tastes and feels French,
with scents of dried grass and flowers, coffee and cola under the sweet berry
flavors, and a softly tannic finish. |
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Sobon
Estate Syrah Shenandoah Valley “ReZerve” 2002 ($24): would
have sworn it was Grenache, Syrah’s traditional blending partner; light
red fruit, plenty of herbs and spice, and a hint of root beer in the finish. |
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Fetzer
Shiraz California 2003 ($9): the aromas are sweet and true to Syrah, while
the wine itself favors overt flavors and a grippy texture aimed at complementing
food. |
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