In many ways Sonoma Valley is the perfect pastoral getaway—especially
for travelers on a budget. Anchored by its center square and surrounded
by tiny towns and pristine hillsides, it boasts hidden wineries, sweet hotels
and B&Bs, relaxed country restaurants, and fantastic historic sites—all
of which come with hospitable price tags rarely found in glitzier neighboring
Napa Valley. Better still, Sonoma's destinations are dispersed throughout
the mountainous region, so seeking out its treasures is an adventure in
itself, complete with beautiful winding drives, vine-trellised landscapes,
and plenty of ways to feel indulgent without sharing the sentiment with
your pocketbook. Head to any of these corner-cutting attractions and you
might feel justified in buying an extra case of superb Sonoma vino for the
road.
One of the area's most beloved freebies is downtown's grassy patch known
as Sonoma Square. Surrounded by shops, restaurants, and inns, it's a fantastic
place to people watch, especially if you partake in the local tradition
of grabbing a strong cup of joe and a pastry from Basque Boulangerie
Café (460 1st St., E., Sonoma, 707-935-7687) and savoring them from a park bench.
While you're here, brush up on your history by plunking down $2 to visit
the Mission San Francisco Solano de Sonoma (1st
St., E and Spain St., 707-938-9560) across the street from the square. The 1823 structure is the northernmost
and last of the famed missions built in California. Should the structure
and its vibrant history pique your interest, you can throw down $3 for the
self-guided Sonoma Walking Tour map, available at the Sonoma
Valley Visitors Bureau (453 1st St., E, Sonoma,
707-996-1090, www.sonomavalley.com) or check
out the illustrious Jack London State Historic Park (2400
London Ranch Rd., Glen Ellen, 707-938-5216). Located a scenic 20-minute drive north from the
square in the exceedingly charming country town of Glen Ellen, it features
more than 800 acres of pastoral play alongside the famous bygone author's
burned-down house and a museum. Pack the car with pals because the entry
fee is $6 per vehicle.
If your ideal hotel room is clean, well-equipped, and located in the center
of the action, you can't go wrong with the Best Western
Sonoma Valley Inn (550 2nd St. W., Sonoma,
707-938-9200, www.sonomavalleyinn.com). But you
can find budget rural respite, too. One of my all time favorite places to
stay regardless of the budget is the very affordable Beltane
Ranch (11775
Sonoma Hwy., Glen Ellen, 707-996-6501, www.beltaneranch.com), a two-level
century-old manor surrounded by verandahs, gardens, hammocks, and hiking
trails. It's not posh, but it is B&B heaven. Start the day nearby at
Garden Court Café & Bakery (13647 Arnold
Dr., Glen Ellen, 707-935-1565, www.gardencourtcafe.com), which served a variety of Benedicts, eggs, pancakes,
and every other rib-gripping morning special. For dinner The Fig
Café & Wine
Bar (13690 Arnold Dr., Glen Ellen, 707-938-2130,
www.thefigcafe.com) serves
up a delicious taste of Sonoma flavor without taking a big bite out of your
funds. Along with tasty pizzas, salads, and rustic entrees, is another bonus:
No fee for bringing and enjoying your own bottle of wine.
