John Steinbeck wrote his Pulitzer Prize-winning novel, The Grapes of Wrath,
in 1939 and in so doing solidified the Monterey region’s place
in the canon of American literature. But in spite of the gloomy outlook
of the novel’s protagonists and the commentary on the changes in the agricultural
landscape and those who work in it, the novel at least hinted at a part
of the prosperity on the horizon.
Today that prosperity can indeed be found
in Monterey in the form of grapes. The Monterey Wine Country
is an industry rooted in history but with an eye toward the future.
Marked by unique terrior and playful microclimates, the countryside produces
wines as varied and interesting as its beautiful landscape.
Monterey’s wine
industry has grown up in the shadow of Napa and Sonoma, but it
has not suffered from an inferiority complex. Rather, the wines
from Monterey—from boutique wineries and large producers alike—have
established a favorable reputation in their own right. That reputation is
boosted by the efforts of the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association
(www.montereywines.org), who work to spread the word throughout the state
and the nation about the many top-quality wines originating in the region.
Two
hundred years ago, it was Franciscan friars who espoused the
merits of winegrowing in Monterey. The birth of winemaking in the area is
traced to the friars at the Spanish mission of Soledad California,
who planted the first crop of wine grapes, the quality of which
is the topic of some debate and pure speculation. But Monterey wines had
their modern-day upswing during the 1960's when a report by Professor A.J.
Winkler, a viticultural expert from UC Davis was published indicating that
Monterey County could indeed be classified with growing regions similar
to those in the premium regions of Napa, Sonoma, Burgundy and Bordeaux.
Following the news, vineyards took root in large numbers throughout the
region, both from upstart growers and established wineries looking to expand
their operation. Among the trailblazers of the era were Chalone, Mirassou,
and J. Lohr, all of whom continue to set the standard for Monterey wines.
Today, though, they have been joined
by numerous wineries producing myriad varietals that each reflects
the intricacies of the regional climate and terrain. Monterey Wine
Country now boasts some 40,000 acres of vineyards with a combined worth
of more than $200 million. The fruits of the area can be enjoyed at some
25 tasting rooms dotting the landscape and renowned for a certain
welcoming hospitality that is as refreshing as it is in retreating supply
these days.
Such wineries as Chateau Julien Wine Estate (8940 Carmel Valley
Rd, 831-624-2600; www.chateaujulien.com) and Bernardus (5 West
Carmel Valley Rd, 831-659-1900; www.bernardus.com) have set
new standards for wine industry hospitality, providing tasting
room climates as agreeable as their wines. The list of others
like them is as long as the region’s history.
While pinot noir,
cabernet, merlot, and zinfandel are produced in award-winning
styles here, Monterey County is beloved for its chardonnay, representing
some 40 percent of the acreage planted. The chardonnay produced
in Monterey, however, varies greatly, from producer to producer, making
tasting throughout the region an adventure in subtlety and palate education.
But while chardonnay may dominate, there’s still room enough for every
kind of grape, because very grape grown in Monterey County is for
wine (no table or juice grapes). And although they are often compared with
the wines of Napa and Sonoma, Monterey wine grapes possess qualities that
easily distinguish them from their California counterparts.
Their distinct
quality and varying characteristics is part of why I love Monterey
wine and why I can’t help but think Mr. Steinbeck might today have a different
description for his grapes.
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The
Monterey Way 