by Courtney Cochran
Journey to Japan
When I poured the 2005 Koshu Yamanashi Cuvée Denis Dubourdieu for a group of creative executives the other day, one wryly remarked that he sensed “a soupçon of Samurai sword” in his glass. Jokes aside, this pioneering effort in traditional winemaking from Japan is dry, low in alcohol (just 10%) and offers tasty notes of lime rind and other citrus fruits before a crisp, food-friendly finish. Koshu is one of the first vinifera grapes (the species to which Chardonnay and Merlot belong) successfully grown in Japan, and we should expect to see more of it on adventurous wine lists in the not-too-distant future.