I’ve long suspected that there might be an upside – at least a temporary one – to global warming when it comes to wine production in some parts of the world. Marginal climates, after all, yield some of the world’s most sought-after wines (think Champagne, Bordeaux and much of Germany), but these areas are also known for their penchant for producing lackluster wines in years when the weather doesn’t get warm enough to make decent juice.
As reported in Decanter, Château Margaux general director Paul Pontallier recently spoke to this phenomenon when he announced, “We are so fortunate with global warming. Look at the number of great vintages we have had [in Bordeaux] in the last 12 or 13 years. It is absolutely amazing.” Counterintuitive though it may sound, Pontallier’s statement speaks to the benefits of warming temperatures in spots like Bordeaux, where vintners often struggle to obtain fully ripe fruit each year. However, a far more chilling effect of global warming was proposed by renowned viticulturalist Richard Smart at a recent climate change workshop in Spain, where he asked attendees, “Have you thought about the fact that in Bordeaux, we may have already seen the best vintages of Cabernet Sauvignon?”
Chilling, indeed. Not to mention the implications of this news for wine regions on our own shores, many of which have warmer average temperatures than their European counterparts. We’d love to hear from vintners stateside about the onslaught of global warming and how it’s changing their wines and making practices. Could there be – as the Bordelais suggest – an upside to our own battle with the phenomenon? Or is the future of wine in our own backyard at serious – and imminent – risk? We hope you’ll take a moment to comment.