I really wish someone would sit men down early in life and teach them this
all-important talent. And no, it’s not their multiplication tables, nor
does it have anything to do with the birds and the bees (helLO, that’s what
cable’s for). And it’s certainly nothing as dull as how to – yawn - change
a tire. This talent, instead, is something they only need to call upon once
a year.
For the rest of their lives.
And that thing is – you guessed it – how to pair wine with chocolate. I
can’t tell you how disconcerted I am every February 14 as I see men scurrying
home to their sweeties with those token signifiers of romantic bliss – a
box of chocolates and a bottle of Champagne. The problem is, chocolate,
being the gooey sweet substance it is, calls for a wine that’s both high
in alcohol (to cut through the mouth-coating goo) and SWEET (to complement
chocolate’s saccharinity).
Because most Champagne is dry and of only moderate alcoholic strength,
you don’t have to be a Mensa candidate to figure out that this rote combo
falls flat every time.
Fortunately for readers of this column, it’s not too late to put your newfound
knowledge to work this year. Read on for the low-down on two dynamite sweet
wines that are sure to pair up beautifully with chocolate AND win the approval
of your special someone. Just beware the extra kick of alcoholic strength;
you need to make sure that YOU don’t fall flat before the night’s over!
The Ultimate Chocolate Wine
Made in a tiny appellation in France’s southerly Languedoc-Roussillon,
Banyuls is a rich straw-colored dessert wine that’s considered
the ultimate match for chocolate. Made from mostly Grenache grapes
to which neutral grape spirit (as in booze, like a flavorless
Brandy) has been added part way through fermentation, these wines
are both sweet AND higher in alcohol thanks to the addition of
the spirit. (The spirit kills the yeast responsible for fermentation,
the process that converts the natural sugars found in grapes
into alcohol, leaving behind residual sugar in the wine.) The
wines are then left alone for up to 30 months or more to develop
their complex aromas and flavors before bottling. Expect layered
notes of figs, nuts, baking spice, licorice, orange peel and
herbs.
Extra credit: Pair up the extremely rare Banyuls Blanc with white
chocolate for a heart stopping combo. Watch for those from Domaine
du Mas Blanc, available for about $26.
The Old Standby, Seen In a New Light
It’s a pity we don’t all drink more Tawny Port. The fabulously
aromatic wine, redolent with aromas of nuts, caramel chews, raisins and
coffee, is unfortunately often dismissed as stuff only fit for serious
post-dinner chats by the fireside. For those us who don’t have a penchant
for late night debates in front of an open hearth (does anyone even HAVE
a fireplace anymore?), this means we don’t drink much Tawny. Which is
too bad, because it’s absolutely fabulous with chocolate, not to mention
all sorts of other rich and nutty desserts. Made in the same way Banyuls
comes to life – fermenting grapes are fortified by the addition of high
alcohol grape spirit, which also stops fermentation and leaves the wine
sweet – Tawny Port is then softened over time by extended oak aging. Besides
giving it time to develop its gorgeous bouquet, the time in oak also makes
the wine lighter in color, hence the name “Tawny.” Pair it up with milk
chocolates, especially those with nuts in the mix, for a deliciously complex
match that should spark some fire of its own. The best versions are aged
Tawnies; watch for Cockburn's 20 Year-Old Tawny Port, about $37.
