Anyone who’s studied wine in books or in a formal wine course has probably
heard of the Old World/New World debate. Based on the idea that wines from
Europe (the Old World) are inherently different from those produced everywhere
else (the New World), the debate has raged for years between lofty connoisseur
types bent on drawing a stylistic divide between the two.
And even though recent events hint that the distinction is actually much
less pronounced than previously thought, the debate rages on.
Why the debate in the first place?
Old World 411
Europe is the cradle of modern day winemaking thanks to extensive
vine plantings there back in the days of the Roman Empire. Thousands of
years of experience have helped European winemakers to identify ideal
plots for growing these vines (e.g. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot fare
best in France’s Bordeaux, and Nebbiolo produces amazing wine in Italy’s
Piedmont).
Because grape vines planted in ideal plots produce grapes with the best
expression, it follows that wines made from these grapes can be outstanding.
And because many of these plots are rich in complex minerals, it comes as
no surprise that the best Old World wines tend to be fabulously complex.
New World Takes a Stand
Cut to the New World. Encompassing regions colonized by Europeans
over the past few centuries, New World wine regions include South Africa,
the USA, Australia and South America. With the European settlers came
vine cuttings and, ultimately, vineyards and thriving wine industries
in these places.
But matching grape varieties to their ideal plots in any new place takes
time. Very much a process of trial and error, this matching is still underway
in many New World wine regions. It’s why a single region in South Africa
may make wine from dozens of grape varieties, even though one or two are
probably best suited to its land: winemakers there are hard at work trying
to figure out which ones they are!
Changes Underway
As time passes and New World producers get better and better at
matching vines to their ideal plots, the wines coming out of
these regions are improving dramatically. One need only look to New Zealand
– a brand spanking new wine region by historical standards – and the outstanding
Pinot Noir produced there lately to see that success is already
on the New World’s doorstep. With its mineral-rich complex soils, New
Zealand is turning out wines that rival those of Europe.
Besides these
changes, global warming is also narrowing the stylistic divide
between Old and New World wines. Because much of winemaking Europe is colder
than New World wine regions, wines produced there have generally been lighter
in body and had higher levels of acidity. These factors are
considered desirable in fine wines since they lend them balance.
With the onset of global warming, however, Europe is warming up. As a result,
its wines are becoming more full-bodied and have lower levels of
acidity than they’ve had in the past. In a word, they’re resembling
New World wines more than ever before. All of which leads me to
thumb my nose at lofty connoisseur types who insist on continuing the debate.
And besides, life’s too short; I’d rather be drinking wine.
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articles by Courtney Cochran
