By Deirdre Bourdet
Brunch menus around the Napa Valley are gearing up for spring with a new
twist on a breakfast favorite. Potato hashes are as familiar and
time-honored as buttermilk pancakes, but a new species of this staple
brunch dish has invaded Napa this year: the chicken hash.
Much like caviar and smoked fish canapes, chicken hash brings together
two of the most prized parts of the same animal: eggs and meat. Unlike
its fishy cousin, though, chicken hash also suits these frugal times and
makes delicious use of an inexpensive and ubiquitous animal. Who
hasn’t got eggs and a piece or two of leftover chicken in their fridge
on any given week? Shredding up those leftovers and mixing them with
sautéed potatoes, garlic, and other pantry seasonings of your choice
stretches them back into a full plate, and topping them with fried or
poached eggs transforms the humble hodgpodge into a thrillingly rich and
fabulous indulgence. Toss in some leftover vegetables, sliced fresh
asparagus, mushrooms, arugula, or whatever you’ve got to bulk up the
nutritional value and the portion size, and you’re very good to go.
Whether for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, chicken hash rocks.
Check out the professional versions around the valley for some inspiration. Unfortunately they’re offered only in the morning for now, but please join my crusade and suggest extending these soul-satisfying egg dishes well into the evening. How great would these taste after a long day of wine tasting?
“Clucky Plucky Chicken Hash” is available from 10:30 to 2:30pm Saturdays and Sundays at Bardessono
in Yountville. Succulent confit leg meat nestles into melted onions and seasonal chanterelle mushrooms, with eggs fresh from the farm. Don’t miss the crisp and juicy breakfast radishes with anchoïade from the bar menu, either–that anchovy and olive oil-based dip will transport your hash (or toast, or omelet, or…) to crazy levels of deliciousness.
If you need an earlier or a midweek fix, The Grill at Silverado
starts slinging its chicken hash in the Silverado Resort at 6:30 a.m., every day of the week. Theirs tops the chicken and spuds with dilled hollandaise and poached eggs. NB:
the bar at the resort also opens at 8:30 a.m. for those in need.