Ehler’s Estate: One Enchanted Evening

By ML Hilton

The thing about a fairy tale night is that you can’t plan for it. Oh, we have all tried. This perfect restaurant, that fabulous dress, pedicure, manicure, take the cure. It doesn’t matter, if you endeavor to create the most perfect evening, something will get in the way. This is true for men, as well as women, fairy-tale failure is a non-gender specific issue.

However, every once in a great while, moonbeams shine on us and whisk away the dreariness of daily life – all the headaches, stress, dust and detritus fall away and what is left (along with usually a bit of a hangover) is magic.

I had my very own fairy tale evening early this June. If I am lucky, these show up about once every 18 months, with stretches of absence as long as 3 years. This night was one that comes probably only once a decade. And the amazing thing was that afterward, it wasn’t just me that felt it.

It was an escape from average. It was Ehlers Escape.

Ehler’s Escape was a Thursday evening hospitality event for this year’s Napa Valley Wine Auction put on by Ehler’s Estate Winery in St. Helena. Dress was 1930’s evening attire and there were a few black elbow length gloves and gowns on sparkly women; men were in fedoras, suspenders, and plenty of pin-stripes.

A fairy tale night always starts with ambiance, and the old stone winery built in the late 1800’s, the 100-year-old olive grove, and weather as soft as a caress set the stage. The champagne didn’t hurt either (two glasses for me). Hors d’oeuvres were a little more scintillating than the conversation (but it *was* early). We had Ahi Tuna Nicoise on Grilled Olive Bread, Truffled Cheese and Serrano Ham Croque Monsieur, Oysters Rockefeller, Foie Gras Torchon with Carmelized Rhubarb, and Bacon, Avocado and Watercress on Walnut Bread. The hor d’oeuvre that captured everyone’s attention was the lobster corn dog. That was where I went over the top and ruined my dinner.

Our hosts performed a funny skit that did its job and provided background and history of the winery: established in the late 1880’s, owner dies, prohibition, lands cut up, lands put back together, re-established as part of a trust that funds international cardiovascular research --the amazing part. Afterwards dinner was served in the intimate winery, only three tables of 10 people. A band played jazz and classics from the 20s and 30s which encouraged a little swaying as we took our seats.

Chef for the evening was Jeffrey Jake from Pebble Beach Resort, and even though we could not provide him with fog to emulate his customary environs, he did provide us with an excellent culinary adventure.

Dinner started with a small Waldorf-type salad served with the 2003 Ehlers Estate Sauvignon Blanc. This is an unusual SB in that it is not grassy. As my tablemate quipped: Grass is for cows, and since she is not of a bovine nature, she was not/is not predisposed to eat (or drink) grass. A merlot followed that had a nice complexity thanks to a blend with Cab Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. This, along with another SB, was served with sweet Maine Lobster Thermidor. Amazing.

I think it was somewhere around this time that I left the table to waltz outside. Evening had not yet fallen and the setting sun spilled across the pavers in a golden spray. The heat of the day and dust of the vineyards lingered in the air as the band played and my handsome friend twirled me endlessly around the patio. I couldn’t help but to throw back my head and laugh.

We sat back down for the palate cleanser and a taste of Cabernet Franc. This is my favorite varietal and I would tell you more about the wine . . . but it is not yet ready for sale. You will have to wait until fall to taste it, and last year’s is long sold out.

The main course was prime beef tenderloin Rossini with foie gras, summer truffles, braised organic spinach and Ehlers Estate Merlot demi Glace. Remember that comment about spoiling my dinner? Unfortunately, that started to hit right about here. The portion was so generous that I think there was only one diner at the table that ended up cleaning their plate.

By this time the moon had risen and dark had fallen, and dancing was under the stars. There were so few couples that we at times had the patio to ourselves, or when we felt the urge danced inside the winery and between the tables while guests ate and conversed.

I do not know how big a role the wine played, but the walls melted away and the other guests faded to mere shadows. Sue kept me laughing (you *must* visit her at the wine bar), and David kept me dancing, and I lingered to the very end.

The night wound up with dessert of course: rationed sugar macerated strawberries Romanoff, Cent Cinquantenaire Gran Marnier, Chantilly Cream (ooooooh) and shaved Scharffenberger Chocolate. There were also Rice Krispy Treats and T’Anne served a Sweet Petite, a portlike Petite Sirah produced by her and her husband (Kailey Cellars label).

We adjourned to the out of doors, this time to smoke cigars in black gloved fingers and to finish a bit of coffee (laced with my Chantilly Cream) and at least one more glass of Cabernet Franc. We had the pleasure to arrive as the first guests of the evening and our hosts then wisecracked that we would have to be the last to leave. I do not know if they realized we would take them at their invitation.

I awoke the next morning, a bit dense in the head and sporting a press-on tattoo on my back. When you wake up with a tattoo, you know the evening ranks right up there. Now, whether you think it is right up there as a good thing, or right up there as a bad thing is a discussion that is outside the realm of this column.

But, I can tell you that if you come to visit the Napa Valley you have to call and invite yourself to Ehler’s Estate. They take appointments. Even if you can’t enjoy the magic of that special evening you can always be assured of having a heartfelt time.

Ehlers Estate • 3222 Ehlers Lane • St. Helena, CA 94574 • (707) 963-5972
www.ehlersestate.com

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M.L. Hilton is a freelance writer based in Napa, Calif., who writes on a number of wine-related topics. She lives with her two children, two dogs, aged cat, and a turtle.

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