A St. Helena Sashay

by M.L. Hilton

Middle age, I swear, has been foisted upon me. First by my health care company, who made the assumption few years back that I somehow crossed the unseen line into physical maturity and began  booking me appointments,  without my request, for various and sundry tests and exams to confirm this diagnosis.

And then my little sister, the blond, blue-eyed child that squealed and giggled and hung off my every available limb, has called to chide me for dragging her with me into a fourth decade. I cannot in my mind’s eye see her as matronly, much less myself.

It’s a myopic vision, but one I am steadfastly going to employ. And seeing that I have just celebrated another birthday, I think any manner of self-delusion is appropriate.

To that end, I shirked family, friends, and responsibility, and stole a way to St. Helena (CA) for a day of youthful rejuvenation – rationalized as a birthday present. St. Helena is an exquisite town to poke around in, whether singularly or with a friend, and I began my day at one of my favorite places: Health Spa Napa Valley.

I started with an 80-minute Swedish massage. This, my friends, is better for what ails the aching body than two (count them) Tylenol –3s. Believe me, I speak from experience. The human body, in my opinion, thirsts for touch, and 80 minutes of constant attention is nourishment.

After the massage, there is nothing better than the eucalyptus-infused steam room. I could feel my skin drinking in the oil that had been so laboriously applied Then a shower, a couple of glasses of cucumber water, and I moved poolside for some Vitamin D therapy and a couple of low-impact laps. One of the great things about Health Spa Napa Valley is that you are availed of the whole facility, which includes a nicely equipped gym, any time you book a spa treatment. But, my day did not include plans to lift anything heavier than my pen.

After about three hours, hunger drove me from the confines of the spa and I couldn’t think of any place better to continue my day of ease and pamper, but  the patio at Tra Vigne. A word of caution – impromptu diners on delightful weekends are sometimes forced to table inside as those with reservations get dibs on the garden setting. I lucked out and landed a table next to the artful fountain that pours water laughing and splashing onto the bricked patio.

In true Napa fashion, Margrit Biever Mondavi and her illustrious husband, Bob – patriarch of Robert Mondavi Winery, were seated one table over, their puppy snuggled into a carry case at their feet.

Lunch started with bread, olives, and oil. Actually, lunch started with a glass of Shramsburg Blanc de Blanc. I am a great believer, and imbiber, in sparkling wines, but bruts of most permutations are usually (but not always) avoided. Almost too quickly, as I would have lingered longer, my plate of Trenette con Gamberi – gulf prawns, asparagus, basil, and tomato essence – arrived.

This was a delicious dish with a surprise spice from red pepper flakes. The noodles and vegetables were exactly the right firmness, neither cooked too long and mushy, nor the somewhat popular under cooked and leaning toward the raw. ($15.95).

Tra Vigne’s pranzo menu (apparently, this means lunch) includes a good selection of antipasti and salads --some of which are meals in and of themselves – pizzas, pastas, and “secondi.” The Sunday secondi I perused included Alaskan halibut with fava puree and roasted purple artichokes ($19.95); Smoked and braised organic beef short ribs with garlic polenta ($20.95); and braised pork shanks, horseradish potatoes and Napa cabbage ($16.25).

Since there was still plenty of champagne birthday cake left over at home, I was only allowed to view the dessert menu. Had it not been for the cake calling to me, I am sure I would have found at least a cheese to nosh on while I finished the glass of Pavi Docetto my server recommended. Pavi Docetto is a Napa grown Italian varietal produced by Rob Lawson and named after his wife Pavi. The wine was soft and perfect for pasta and beyond.

I was loath to give up my spot, but soon could find no additional reason to linger. Hearth and responsibility called. The drive down Silverado Trail was gloriously splendid and the perfect route home.

RECOMMENDATIONS: When visiting Health Spa Napa Valley leave products at home as they more than adequately supply the locker room – razors, deodorant, shampoo and lotions of many flavors. To further the enjoyment bring a sundress, hat, and sunglasses, forgo blowdry and makeup and throw the dress over your swimsuit. 80 minute Swedish massage: $150, plus tip; steamroom, pool, and workout: included.

M.L. Hilton is a freelance writer based in Napa, Calif., who writes on a number of wine-related topics. She lives with her two children, two dogs, aged cat, and a turtle.

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