It used to be that wine bars were just that—bars serving wine.
But in recent years they've become much more. Many of today's shrines
to fermented grape juice are bona fide destinations where your
taste buds can traipse across county—and often international—lines, and
also be tantalized by snacks that go worlds beyond boring palate-cleansing
crackers. In Napa and Sonoma there are even more reasons to seek the power-taster's
alternative to winery hopping. First: They're open long after
wineries have washed the last wineglasses of the day. Second, as local
hangouts, bar offerings here must impress people for whom some of the
world's finest food and wine are as ubiquitous as burgers and cokes are
to strip malls. But don't take my word for it. Stop by any of the following
haunts to school and satiate your palate with the exceptional taste of
Wine Country. Then call yourself a taxi.
NAPA VALLEY
One of my favorite places to snack and sip, The Bounty
Hunter (975
First St., #B, Napa, 707-226-3976, Napa, bountyhunterwine.com) was a wine
catalog for years before owner Mark Pope created his country-western chic
wine bar, bistro, and retail shop. Now one of downtown Napa's few places
that heats up as the sun does down, it's a prime spot to saddle up to
a table (literally) or snag a stool at the bar to sample from 40 wines
by the glass or 400 by the bottle. Add to that an order of beer can chicken
that's grilled in the back parking lot and you're really living large
local style.
"Upvalley" has lots of restaurants with vast wine programs, but
wine bars, not so much. Calistoga's BarVino (1457
Lincoln Avenue, Calistoga, 707-942-9900, www.bar-vino.com), which opened in September in the Mount
View Hotel, hopes to change that. The co-op tasting bar showcases the latest
juice from 25 of the valley's small-production wineries such as Calix Cellars,
Waugh Cellars, and Spencer Roloson. Sweetening the deal is a menu of Mediterranean-inspired
small plates and the promise of conviviality.
NORTHERN SONOMA
It's fitting that an unassuming road off of Northern Sonoma's beaten
wine path leads to Willi's Wine Bar (4404
Old Redwood Hwy., Santa Rosa, 707-526-3096; williswinebar.net). Dimly lit and low-slung, the bar-meets-restaurant
has the kind of speakeasy appeal that pairs perfectly with its 40 mostly
local wines. Offered by the two-ounce or five-ounce pour, and half bottle
or bottle, selections are especially delicious when accompanied by a few
of the beautifully presented International small plates, which look as
good as they taste.
Wine Spectrum Wine Shop and Bar (123 Fourth
St., Santa Rosa, 707-636-1064, winespectrum.com) is another newcomer born from a successful wine catalog.
Located in Santa Rosa's old Railroad Square and launched this past June,
the loung-y spot characterized by contemporary décor and a giant curved
steel wine rack makes good use of the owner's 25 years worth of winery connections.
Drop by at the right time and the staff may be pouring an old Châteaux Lafite,
but equally exciting is their ever-changing menu of 30 local and international
wines by the two-, five-, and nine-ounce taste, most of which are limited
production and lesser-known. Regardless, it's a sexy spot to sip, sit, and
snack on charcuterie, panini, or a fine cheese plate.
