In a galaxy where the stars of Napa and Sonoma shine like supernovas, there
are a few glimmers in the sky that also command the attention of wine country
stargazers. Take for instance the town of Healdsburg, for years content
to exist in the outer reaches of what most people thought of as Wine Country.
But these days, the gravitational pull is proving too great to resist.
Healdsburg is stepping out of its comfortable spot as supporting actor
and into a leading role. The secret is out that the once sleepy town is
a destination in its own right. And it doesn’t hurt that it’s just a short
drive from San Francisco. Indeed during a recent weekend visit, it seemed
as if half my San Francisco neighborhood was congregating in the bar at
the Hotel Healdsburg.
What locals have known for decades, the rest of the world is finding out.
Healdsburg offers the amenities and attractions of the bigger, better-known
Wine Country towns while managing to retain a down-home charm and easy-paced
lifestyle. Though it’s known as a great place for bicycle tours, much of
Healdsburg’s charm is rooted in its walkability. The downtown core, anchored
by a park-like plaza, is rife with shops, galleries, cafes, and restaurants.
And in perhaps in no other part of Wine Country can you find so many tasting
rooms accessible without having to drive. There are some 15 tasting rooms
within a short walk of the town plaza.
Among them is Kendall-Jackson Healdsburg (337
Healdsburg Ave; 707-433-7102),
near the northwest corner of the plaza. It’s the winery’s ancillary—and
much smaller—tasting room, but it offers the full range of KJ wines. Also
located on the square is an offshoot tasting room for giant Gallo
of Sonoma (320 Center Street; 707-433-2458), which offers the well-known producer’s
varietals for tasting by flight in a sit-down situation.
Lake Sonoma Winery (340 Healdsburg Ave; 707-473-2999) is also represented
on the plaza. The tasting room is often packed with enthusiasts of the popular
regional winery. Nearby is the stylish Mayo Family
Winery’s Reserve Room (340 Center Street; 707-433-9400), which presents a refined, relaxed atmosphere
in which to enjoy their small-lot wines. Taking the tasting concept up a
notch, they also offer pairings with each tasting of small dishes prepared
by the chef from the excellent next-door restaurant, Zin (344
Center Street, 707-473-0946).
Other tasting rooms in the downtown area include the friendly Toad
Hollow (409A Healdsburg Ave; 707-431-8667), and Rosenblum
Cellars (250 Center Street;
707-431-1169) an East Bay transplant that put down stakes just around the
corner from the wildly popular Oakville Grocery.
Speaking of Oakville Grocery (124 Matheson
St.; 707-433-3200), the third
incarnation of the gourmet grocery store founded in Napa Valley is one of
the best placed in Healdsburg to stop for an afternoon respite. The grocery
has a retail component stocked with regionally produced gourmet products,
as well as an alfresco café-style patio upon which to enjoy fresh-prepared
treats from the kitchen. Not to be outdone by its neighbors, the grocery
has a wine tasting bar, too.
Of course, for appetites beyond the gourmet grocery, Healdsburg seems to
get better all the time. There are numerous excellent spots in
the immediate vicinity of the plaza, but a few have lately been hogging
the spotlight (deservedly so). At Dry Creek Kitchen (317
Healdsburg Ave., 707-431-0330; www.hotelhealdsburg.com), big-name chef Charlie Palmer oversees
an ever-changing array of seasonal Wine Country fare that has amassed a
huge and slavish following (yours truly included). The place screams contemporary
wine country chic, and the atmosphere imparts a feeling that you are connected
to the immediate moment.
For something a bit more refined but certainly not stuffy, there’s Cyrus (29
North Street, 707-433-3311; www.cyrusrestaurant.com),
whose intimate atmosphere has a European allure that is buttressed by a
prix fixe menu offered in three or five courses. It’s all very civilized.
Both of the aforementioned are associated with excellent hotels (Hotel
Healdsburg and Le Mars Hotel, respectively), each providing a convenient waddle “home”
when the day of wine tasting and eating in Wine Country’s newest “It” town
is done.
Say Hello to Healdsburg 